The mechanisms of skin aging include the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and oxidative stress mechanisms. The generation of ROS in the skin was a result of environmental factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, cigarette smoke, and pollutants, as well as the natural aging process. ROS and oxidative stress can stimulate the upregulation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and elastases, leading to the degradation of collagen and elastin in the dermal matrix of the skin. Tyrosinase is a key enzyme that controls melanin production. Inhibition of tyrosinase can reduce melanin production, achieve skin whitening, and effectively solve pigmentation. Plants are rich in active ingredients that can be used to treat skin aging and skin diseases. With the development of society, the demand for cosmetics is increasing day by day, especially for skin-care products that slow down skin aging or address skin diseases. Therefore, it makes sense to search for and study natural extracts or ingredients with cosmetic activity.

Rosa chinensis cv. ‘JinBian’, a cultivar of Rosa chinensis Jacq, is mainly grown in Wenshan, Chuxiong, Dali, Kunming, Lijiang, and Qujing in Yunnan Province of China, and is one of the major raw materials of rose tea.

Researchers comprehensively evaluated the cosmetic activity of the extracts and chemical constituents of Rosa chinensis cv. ‘JinBian’ by 1,1-diphenyl-2-propenylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging, elastase inhibition, anti-tyrosinase, and antibacterial assays to determine their potential use in cosmetics.

The bioassay results confirmed the antioxidant, elastase inhibitory, and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of its ethanolic extract (anti-tyrosinase results are shown below). In addition, 15 compounds were isolated from this plant for the first time by activity-guided separation, including a new active compound, kaempferol 3-O-α-L-rhamnopyranosyl (1→6)-(2”,3”-O-digalloyl)-β-D-glucopyranoside. Moreover, among the isolated compounds, a variety of antioxidant, elastase-inhibiting, and anti-tyrosinase active compounds were first identified.

Taken together, the discovery of these active extracts and compounds suggests the potential application of Rosa chinensis cv. ‘JinBian’ in the development of natural anti-aging, skin-whitening, and antibacterial products. Additionally, a number of antibacterial compounds have been found. These findings provide a scientific basis and direction for better development and utilization of this plant.

Li, M. X., Xie, J., Bai, X., & Du, Z. Z. (2021). Anti-aging potential, anti-tyrosinase and antibacterial activities of extracts and compounds isolated from Rosa chinensis cv.‘JinBian’. Industrial Crops and Products, 159, 113059. [Link]